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Douro Valley and beyond

2/25/2020

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I feel like all my posts begin with I can't believe I've been on the road for..... But it's true! I've been in Spain and Portugal almost a month now and even longer if I count my week around Cork. Since my last post, so much has happened and I feel like this is a regular occurrence. So much so that I can't keep up with it all!


After spending time in the national park, I spent some time in beautiful Porto which I loved so much I stayed 3 nights. 70c hot showers next to my park up and the view by the river was so nice. I ended up there sooner than expected, considering I had a dodgy experience in a beach town earlier on the night I arrived. I had been surrounded by a few cars at midnight and felt very uncomfortable even though the place was so chilled and beautiful during the day and I had seen other camper vans around. Around 1am I noticed the guys who parked up, looking into my van and being very peculiar. I had a strong feeling I needed to leave, so while my guard dog lay sleeping on the bed, I holled in the drivers seat, pls on, as the guys stared at me, and drove off. I was followed to two locations until I eventually lost them. I continued to Porto and the rest is history... Or so I thought.


I met a lovely girl in Porto called Lena who had a gypsy caravan and was travelling Portugal for over a year with her dog. We changed loads about life and swapped stories, before I headed off into the douro valley to explore what I had heard was one of the most beautiful regions of the world. And they were right!


Arriving in Souselo, I parked up at a free motorhome area complete with free showers, toilets, electric hook up, water and views to die for. The place was so great that I couldn't leave and ended up there for 4 glorious nights. It helped that I had lots of new van friends and the weather was a least 24 every day.


I met John and Gillie an English couple and their Chihuahua whiskey who parked next to me on Day 2. I spent evening drinking wine and watching movies with them and days, sitting in the sun chatting. John even kindly offered to repair the side of my van which I had damaged a while back. Whilst checking out my van, he spotted a slash in my back tyre and came to the conclusion that, that was the reason I was being followed. I had no idea! Luckily, I mean major lucky, that I have 4 back wheels so I could get away at the time, and hadn't even noticed the issue. John was super nice and put extra security on the van and both of them were so kind to me during those days! I was so grateful.


I met a group of Dutch friends who parked the other side, and ended up on a river walk with them and then taught them all yoga the morning I was leaving. I felt as if I could stay there for weeks and never tire of it. The vineyard walks were lush and the sun beaming down as I relaxed by the van, were just two of the many things I loved. The day I left, the gang helped me get out of my parking spot and up the steep hill which we had watched many fail at, I was terrified of that part. I headed off for Peso do Regua where I stopped at a camper area which had 27 campers by the end of the day and was a payable site for electricity and water which I hadn't known. I got away without paying and managed to get my tyre sorted and brake fluid added whilst in town. Luckily I had been told it was a public holiday the next day. With the van full of diesel, a new tyre fixed and laundry all done, I was ready to head off deeper into the valley to rhe heart of the douro wine region Pinhão. It goes without saying that I am looking forward to whatever van life brings next... The good things obviously
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And It's Portugal

2/12/2020

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I can't believe it's almost 2 weeks since I got to Spain. It feels a lot longer than that and now I'm actually in Portugal. This past week has been full of beautiful scenery, kind people and some of the best night's sleep I've had (who knew the sound of the waves could send you into such a deep slumber). I'm writing this as I lay on my comfy bed, dog at my feet, with a view of the ocean out my bedroom window. I'm so pleased to be able to just 'be' and enjoy this.
Don't get me wrong it's not all beaches, sunsets and rainbows, there are times travelling with a dog can be stressful, tidying up constantly can be endless and there are times when you end up on scarily narrow streets and think its the end of the world. Thankfully most of the time, things go smoothly but when they don't, it scares the bejesus out of me. Those of you who saw my insta story the other day will know what I mean. Google maps took me up and down some treacherously narrow roads whilst looking for the campervan park. I ended up on roads and stone bridges that just about fit my van and scratched the whole side of someone's fence up in the hills whilst trying to squeeze through. I just kept going!
My bad!


I've stayed at some beautiful beach areas especially in Portugal where they have been secluded at night and so peaceful and the evenings are lit up by the bright orange sunsets (when its not overcast of course). I've been on long morning beach walks, exchanged 'Bom Dia' with the locals and bath in the Atlantic ocean as the sun rose. I've gotten used to cold beach showers and ocean bathing now. I'd rather do this than not bathe at all, and that's not an option. The temperature here is not hot but it's definitely comfortable to be able to do this. There's something very therapeutic about cold water on your body first thing in the morning and cold salty water, even more so. I don't think I've craved a hot shower once since I've been on this journey and probably won't as long as the ocean is close by.


I spend my days planning my route and reading reviews on Park4night as well as reading and watching episodes of friends as I cook! I have barely spent any money apart from filling up with Diesel (cheap in Spain, hella expensive in Portugal though), buying bits and bobs in the supermarket and laundry of course but this is essential stuff. The most luxurious thing I've bought recently was a manual coffee maker for the stove (I have lot's of freshly ground coffee with me) and that was on sale at €2.99. I have discovered Intermarche, a cheap supermarket that has everything and more, even laundry services outside which are awesome and cheap. I am quite close to Porto now and plan to head there tomorrow. For now I continue to work as a travel writer for 'Ireland Before You Die', which is fun and I can work when I want to, and I continue to enjoy the sound of the waves and the outdoors because this is Portugal and this is what I've been waiting for!
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One week down!

2/5/2020

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Sitting on the roof of my van watching the surfers catch waves in the distance, i cant help but pinch myself. Its only been a werk and i feel like this is what i should have been doing all my life. As the sun begins to set i retreat to my bed to do some writing whilst Gimli peers out the window trying to spot other dog friends in the distance. He has met so many here and seems so happy, especially on the beach. He sleeps so well at night and his faint snoring soothes me to sleep every night while his big fur body keeps me warm. Not that its terribly cold at all here, it was 23 degrees the other day and just beautiful.

​I have made new friends too, Aura from Spain and Tom from Germany who i met when wild camping at Playa Esteira a couple of days ago. We got talking and the travel tips and stories continued for hours after that. Aura left to drive further on but stopped by again the day after much to our excitement. Its kind of a cool feeling when youre in the middle of nowhere and someone stops to say hi again, as if youve known each other years. It was awsome. From her van, her home on wheels, she reached to take a hand made dream catcher which she gave to me, without even knowing my obsession, i returned the gesture giving her an embroidered cushion cover i had gotten in India and never used, she was delighted considering she had forgotten her pillow for on the road, which I hadnt known. Its funny how things work that way! Tom and I parked next to each other and cooked a delicious lentil curry that evening in my van as the sun set at my dining table window. And then of course, a herd of cows and some men chasing them, ran by. Random! That day was scorching hot so we played on the beach with Gimli, did some laundry by hand and i did some writing in the van. Some people stopped as they drove past, to say hi, pet Gimli and admire the view. It was a really lovely atmosphere!

​This week has been full of surprises, bad and good. Getting stuck in carparks my van is too small for, nearly getting blown off the extremely high viaduct bridges from the strong winds and then of course finding absolutely magical places to park. I have spent almost every day with a sea view which just keeps getting better. Who knew that falling asleep and waking up to the sound of the waves could be so soothing. Ive never slept better- and neither has Gimli.

​As i go into week 2 i wonder how this trip can possibly get wven better, but then i cast rhay wonder aside and just decide to let it happen. Its been a positive effect so far! This week has been super cheap too, ive driven a long way and only filled up diesel twice which is very cheap in Spain and ive gone to Lidl for my groceries which a) is great because i can always park there and b) is super affordable. I am now in the region of Galicia, a region i have been before whilst on the camino and the coastline is spectacular. The tiny roads leading down to them, not so much. If youre thinking of doing this too, what are you waiting for, its an amazing life, just like life should be.
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