If you have read some of my other blog posts from Chile or follow my instagram stories, you may well know that Chile is not our favourite country - not just in South America, but in the world. Not only have we given the country many chances, but we decided to go back once more, as to not miss out on San Pedro de Atacama - the highest desert in the world. But first, let me explain about our arrival to this town. 

We last left off, when we decided to cross the Jama Pass from Argentina to Chile, a decision that we began to deeply regret as soon as the sun went down. As we felt the cold begin to cut through us, we noticed that the roads went steeper and steeper, to the point where our bike was jittering, ready to give up. It was not yet accustomed to the altitude, much like its owners. You see, if we got stuck up here we would have had a hard time finding anywhere protected from the wind, to set up our tent, plus there was not a single car passing us for hours. It began to get scary!

We continued slow and steady, hoping the road would eventually go downhill, afterall we had gone from 4,200m altitude at the border to 4,850m at the highest point, and it seemed to stay at this high altitude forever. You see, San Pedro de Atacama is at a low altitude of 2,500m, so we HAD to go down at some point - or so we thought. After hours of struggling with the bike, the cold and the altitude, wondering if we should just give up and camp, we eventually came to the last 40km of road, which plummeted straight down to the desert town like a rollercoaster - it was the craziest thing we had seen. So, onwards we pushed, arriving at our hostel exhausted at 10pm. 

While in San Pedro we planned to do a few of the main attractions like the geysers, star gazing, Moon Valley etc, but found out that many other attractions were very costly and it seemed as though Bolivia had even better attractions at a much lower cost. Sure, we were crossing the border to take on the famous Laguna Route in a few days, so why bother spending the money here? - Again, or so we thought!

During our few days in San Pedro, we explored Moon Valley, which was a spectacular landscape that could be visited for a cool price of $11 (approx) each, went star gazing, which cost $35 each, and avoided all the rest. While we were here, we had been lied to repeatedly, something which we should have expected from our last experiences in Chile. A so-called guide at our hostel told us wrong information about Moon Valley and we nearly missed the chance to visit it, while the tourist information and guide at the Moon Valley reception all gave us false information, meaning we paid to see the region, but were restricted to half of it because of closing times. Not to mention a waiter trying to scam us and a receptionist at our hostel also giving us false information about a tour. 

This began to frustrate us and we were eager to get out of San Pedro as soon as possible. In all honesty, the hostel we stayed at was very affordable, friendly, and comfortable, and the stargazing experience was truly magical, so it wasn't all bad - but after the experience that was about to come, little did we know this would be the straw that broke the camels back. 

It was the last day in San Pedro and we had stocked up on food in the local supermarket, which was of course terrible quality and expensive - welcome to Chile. We planned to drive the Laguna Route, which would begin at the Chile/Bolivian border and continue on to Uyuni, Bolivia. The road was notorious for being isolated, bad quality and a big challenge for many, albeit with sensational views and otherworldy landscapes. We decided to go for it, so we prepared with food, extra fuel, water and a sense of adventure. But someone was about to out a stop to our dream.

Remember the 40km steep road downhill, which led us to San Pedro de Atacama a few days before? Well this morning we had to drive UP again, making it from 2,500m to nearly 5000m in 30km - just crazy. When we arrived we approached the Aduana (customs) and began to get very lighheaded. Carrying on, we tried to get the paperwork done fast toget back on the bike and move on, but this was not going to happen. The authorities told us that we could not cross this border as a foreign owner of a Chilean vehicle, and told us we needed to drive ALL THE WAY BACK to Argentina and cross from there - a cool 1500km detour. 

We argued for a while, with whatever energy we had, since the rules were not clear and they had let many people cross before - we could see this on our iOverlander app. They still refused and off we went, back to Argentina. After driving for two hours back to the Jama Pass, we approached the Aduana once again, only to be told that we could not leave Chile AT ALL, as foreign owners of a Chilean vehicle - something which was completely illegal and had never caused an issue before. Throughout Patagonia, it is necessary to cross between Chile and Argentina every few days to explore the region, and while we were there, we had zero problems - UNTIL NOW. It seemed quite odd? Not only did the Aduana try to actively find issues with our documents, but when we gave them a logical answer, they would then hunt for something else, which eventually led to them finding some issue with one paper. 

The funny thing is the issue with the said paper had nothing to do with crossing the border to Argentina, and it was a paper that they didn't even need to acquire in the first place. The whole thing seemed fishy and we wondered if there had been communication between the last Aduana and this one. Who knew? We debated back and forth until they finally allowed us to leave Chile for one month - yes ONE MONTH, even though we are legally allowed to take our moto out of Chile for up to 180 days every time. After a stressful situation, hunger, and altitude sickness, we agreed just to get stamped out of this horrible country. Next up was the Aduana Argentina, a place that was full of smiles, friendliness, and genuine welcomes, oh how these two countries could be so different!

Here we were, stamped out of Chile and into Argentina once again, with over 1,000km detour and backtracking ahead of us. Oh and did I mention that this meant we could not do the Laguna Route on our motorbike after all. It was time to figure out a solution and regain some energy for the next few days of driving towards Bolivia.

​First things first, we took a room at the YPF hotel, where we could relax, enjoy some English movie channels, and plan the coming days. 

What a whirlwind of events in just a few days. 

What if I told you we discovered some of the most mind-blowing scenery imaginable while crossing Argentina? When we left Paraguay, we drove for over three days through flatlands and pampas with little to focus on, so when we finally arrived in Cafayate in Northern Argentina, we were gobsmacked. Truth be told, Dennis had a few places marked, which I had not looked into, so I had no idea what to expect, and little did I know that this place would be more than we could imagine. 

On our way there, we stopped by Termas de Honda known for its thermal springs and stayed at a campsite where we picthed our tent beside over 6 pools, which we had all to ourselves. From here, we continued to the archeological site of Quilmes, a fascinating former urban settlement that tells a somber story. Dating from about AD 1000, Quilmes was a complex indigenous urban settlement that occupied about 30 hectares and housed as many as 5000 people. The inhabitants survived contact with the Inca, which occurred from about AD 1480 onward, but could not outlast the siege of the Spanish, who in 1667 deported the remaining 2000 to Buenos Aires. The story of the deportation of this calm and nonviolent group was heart-wrenching, yet this site exists today to keep the culture of the Quilmes people alive, which I very much appreciate. 

We passed by glorious vineyards, backed by the Andes mountains as we approached Cafayate, and boy was it stunning. We planned to stay here for a few days to explore the area - a place known for its red rocks and surreal landscape, but little did we know that it would give the USA National Parks a run for their money. Not only was the town of Cafayate, which is located in the province of Salta, a great place to wander around, shop, or have drinks and dinner, but once we got to the outskirts of the town, we couldn't believe what we saw. 

We took the motorbike and headed for The Calchaqui Valley, which is an area known for its stunning rock formations. It is best known for its contrast of colors and its unique geography, which ranges from the mountain desert to the subtropical forest. As the road winded around the towering rock formations, another surprise awaited us around each corner, and we couldn't​ help but grin from ear to ear. We spent the entire afternoon driving Ruta 68, an impressively scenic road, which for me was one of the most beautiful landscapes I had seen in a long time. Little did we know Argentina would continue to surprise us. 

Having had our fill of delicious food and wine in Cafayate, and incredible scenery, we continued on towards the beautiful city of Salta, where we took the time to get the bike maintained and source Western Union funds yet again (see my blog about the Blue Dollar) and eventually to Purmamarca - home of the Hill of Seven Colours. We were starting to think that Northeastern Argentina was giving Argentinian Patagonia a run for its money. 

Purmamarca was a place that blew our minds yet again. Here we were in a town that was similar to something from a Wild West movie, surrounded by colorful mountains of all shapes and sizes. The streets were dusty, the atmosphere was calm, and there was a lot to discover on foot - which is what we did. We explored the famous Hill of Seven Colours by hiking to a nearby viewpoint which gave us the best view, and the following day, we embarked on a circular trail around the colorful rock region, which was just as impressive around every corner. 

While staying in Purmamarca, we went out to eat, starting with a delicious regional restaurant that served regional specialties like Cafayate wine, barbequed llama, and goat, which we both tried. The following day, we tried a local pizzeria that was highly recommended on our beloved app, 'iOverlander,' and it did not disappoint. Purmamarca was a gem in the crown of North Argentina, and we could easily have spent a few more days exploring the area. 

So, this was it. The time had come to leave Argentina (or so we thought) and make our way to Chile to visit San Pedro de Atacama Desert, and to Bolivia from there. From Purmamarca we drove across some stunning passes, one of which reached 4,070m and onwards to Jama, which bordered Chile. It was beginning to get late and we still had another three or so hours to make it across the Jama Pass - one of the highest roads in South America, and arrive in San Pedro De Atacama. 

We wondered if we should stay the night at the YPF (gas station) hotel, but when the rooms were fully booked, we decided to go for it (and what a silly mistake this was). Our last few minutes in Argentina were beautiful, as the sun set and the landscape lit up golden around us, but once the sun went down, we found ourselves going higher and higher into the mountains as the temperature began to plummet - and as our bike threatened to give up due to the extremely high altitude. We were beginning to think, we made the wrong decision to just 'go for it'.

Stay tuned for the Chile blog to see what happens next. 

You might wonder why on earth we decided to continue our journey in Uruguay and, more so, why we decided to continue to Paraguay. Most people who meet us ask us if we have been to Brazil, but Brazil was never part of this itinerary - we just need more time. However, I had time to explore the country when I backpacked in 2012. This time, we were due to collect our motorbike from Uruguay, where we had stored it with a kind German lady for almost eight months. (Click for motorbike storage details)

Our plan was to pick up the motorbike, cross into Argentina and make our way through the province of Entre Rios, to enter Paraguay at the city of Encarnacion. Paraguay was a country that had been on our radar for a while and was a place that we noticed many overlanders skipped - after all, it does not have world-famous attractions or an incredible landscape like its neighbors. But we were intrigued. 

We spent time exploring the 'beach town' of Encarnacion, which had a bustling river beach lined with beach bars that served the best and cheapest cocktails - we noticed that everything was very cheap in Paraguay. Encarnacion is the city where we met lovely locals, ate copious 'lomito arabe' from Habibs, and drank delicious cocktails every night - what can we say, it was like a beach holiday of sorts! From here, we arrived at Ciudad del Este, but not before being stopped by a group of friends eager to get to know our travel story, which was a very nice experience. 

Ciudad del Este was a shock to the system after Encarnacion, and our first glimpse of the city was hectic. It reminded us of the craziness of India - loud, dirty, and chaotic. However, we were staying at a fantastic place outside the city, with a pool, our own apartment, and a very nice and helpful host who gave us an insight into life in Paraguay. It was in this city that we sourced parts for the bike and finally got some new off-road tires to take us on the next adventure. Before moving on, we took a day trip with the motorbike to Iguassu Falls in Argentina, and from Tres Fronteras (Three Borders) we took the short ferry ride across. Despite the rain, we enjoyed our day and it was great to be back at the falls, even though many of the viewpoints had been closed. 

From Ciudad del Este, we drove to Villarica and to Piribebuy, where we decided to explore the surrounding area. This was one of the central regions where many European ex-pats lived, and you could find plenty of clues - like German bakeries and German signs everywhere. We explored the area, including visiting the tallest waterfall in Paraguay - Salto Suiza and Salto Cristal, both beautiful. Still, if there is one thing you should know, everything worth seeing lies at the end of a long dirt road. 

We visited the towns surrounding Lake Ypacarai, most notably San Bernardino, Itagua, Aregua, and Caacupe, which had artisan markets, waterside viewpoints, and charming streets. From Piribebuy, we continued to Asuncion, which would mark the end of our time in Paraguay, and continued towards San Pedro de Atacama, Chile, via Argentina. Our experience in Paraguay was enjoyable overall; we saw some beautiful sites, met some great people, and loved that the country was not flooded with tourists - this was certainly refreshing to experience. 

So our motorbike trip began with a stop off in Mexico, except this destination would be traveled with backpacks and local transport. Our Chilean motorbike was in storage in Uruguay for the past eight months, and we planned to pick it up to continue our South American travels.
​So, why did we begin in Mexico? So far from South America?

Many people wondered about this, and the question has arisen many times, but the answer is simple - we were invited to a wedding. My good friends Lars-Erik and Miriam invited Dennis and me to their Norwegian/Mexican wedding, which would take place in Puebla, a state close to Mexico City, and we decided to turn this into a more extended trip to explore Mexico before the wedding celebrations began.

Our plan was simple: we would begin in Cancun, celebrate my birthday in Cozumel, travel across Mexico, visit some top highlights, and then end with the wedding. So that is what we did! 

We began in Playa del Carmen, where we enjoyed plenty of Mexican street food, celebrated my birthday on the island of Cozumel (the picture above is of my birthday on rental scooters in Cozumel), and spent a few days in Tulum City and Tulum beach, visiting Mayan ruins and enjoying the beach. 

From here, we continued to Valladolid, Holbox, Merida, and finally to Campeche on the Gulf of Mexico before making our way out of the Yucatan peninsula and towards the recommended states of Chiapas and Oaxaca. Firstly, let's just say that Holbox is well worth a visit, and even though it is a popular place filled with beach bars, coconut vendors, fancy restaurants, and beach hotels, we still managed to find cheap accommodation, cheap local food, and even cheap cocktails at the beach. 

We are not the type to splash out, except on special occasions, so we need to seek the best deals wherever we go. Otherwise, our trips would only last for a bit! Holbox was a stunning place to swim in calm turquoise waters, and the sandy roads reminded me of the Gilli Islands in Bali somehow - but not when they were flooded, and we were ankle-deep in water. 

It was my second time to Merida and Valladolid (The best place to visit Chichen Itza from), but my first time to Campeche, which we found to be a charming colonial town with lovely coastal views. Did I mention that these first few weeks were sweltering? So, the coastal breeze was a 'warm' welcome from the previous places we had been. No pun intended!

One thing I havent mentioned is the cenotes we visitied, how could i forget this? I had been to two on my last visit to Mexico, and this time we planned to visit a few different ones. We visitied Gran Cenote near Tulum where we could snorkel with many turtles, which made the experience so unique and cool. We then visitied three other cenotes near Valladolid, Oxman and the joining X'keken and Samula, all of which were great to experience and were all so different from each other. 

From Campeche, we adventured to San Cristobal de las Casas, a renowned mountain town popular with expats and travelers. Before we arrived here, we stopped off at Palenque Archeological Site, one of the top Mayan ruins we had been advised to see - it was impressive, to say the least, and could I argue that it is better than Chichen Itza? Maybe!
​San Cristobal de las Casas was beautiful, and they say that many people who pass through this town get drawn in and stay longer than planned; some end up living there (even our walking tour guide admitted to this). We also learned that buying weed in San Cristobal is legal, so maybe they go hand in hand; who knows? Either way, we could see why this place was so popular. It was much more relaxed than the previous places we had been, the nature was more mountainous and green, plus the town had a charm with its narrow cobbled streets and quirky cafes and shops. 

After spending some time exploring San Cristobal de las Casas, we made our way toward the coast to a trendy town called Puerto Escondido, but only after a visit toSumidero Canyon, which was incredible. We took a boat trip through the canyon and saw wild monkeys, various birds, and even crocodiles, which was so cool. After the wild ride, we hopped on an overnight bus bound for Puerto Escondido. 
​
This was once a sleepy coastal town, but today, it is one of the most popular places to visit, lined with beach bars and hotels, yet the city center still has a local feel. However, this was where we had one of our worst hostel experiences yet (If you've seen my Instagram stories, you will know), but let's say Pipeline Hostel SHOULD be avoided if you have any standards. Lesson learned!

​Nevertheless, we enjoyed cocktails at the beach, rambling around the town and beachfront, and had the BEST tacos ever. To enjoy world-class coconut shrimp tacos, you must visit Pepe's Fish Tacos, which is FANTASTIC and great value. Trust us when we say that one taco is HUGE, so don't order too many. Pepe is passionate about his creations and does not like food waste! We loved this!

After Puerto Escondido, we decided to make our way to Mazunte, a small coastal town along the Pacific coast known for its small Italian community and woodfired pizzas. We were sold! Mazunte was such a world away from Puerto Escondido and had a small-town feel and a very laid back beach vibe. The roads were small and dusty, the shops and cafes were quirky and cute and the beach was stunning. We could easily have spent much more time in this place, but we needed to keep going. 

From Mazunte we took local transport to Huatulco for the day, after our plan to rent a moto fell through - aparently it was too dangerous to drive all the way to Huatulco from Mazunte. Little did we know, this was a terrible turn of events, and taking local transport to this famous resort town, would prove to be a waste of time. I had heard about Huatulco and its nine bays, and we imagined that we could spend the day there hiking, swimming and enjoying the coastal vibe, but this was far from reality. 

It turns out that public transport in these popular resort towns is almost non existant and if you want to get to the beaches, you need to avail of expensive taxis. The local buses got us to the main town, but there was no way to explore further without walking miles in the heat (which we ended up doing). After a defeated day, with not a stunning view in sight, we decided to call this day a write-off and go back to Mazunte. We visited the town of Zipolite, known for its more prestigious vibe and nude beach, before taking the bus to Oaxaca - a place we were SO excited to finally visit. 

The next place on our list was Oaxaca, the cultural heart of Mexico and the place that is famous for its various moles (Mexican sauce) and chocolate - did you know that Mexico is the birthplace of chocolate? We were excited to visit this town, try the local food (the food varies greatly from region to region in Mexico), and explore the attractions around the city. We visited Monte Alban, an impressive Mayan ruin and a UNESCO Site, and Mitla, which was also declared as a UNESCO Site but could have been more unusual in our opinion; however, i'm sure the historical significance is remarkable. 

From Oaxaca, we were able to visit Hierve el Agua, an imposing and unique rock formation that resembles a waterfall. Oaxaca was a great place to explore huge local markets, shop for handcrafts like Mexican Huaraches (leather sandals), and soak up the smell of chocolate from the various chocolate factories. We could easily have spent longer in this place, but we are sure we will return next year with Gimli and our future car, so no worries! For authentic culture, delicious cuisine, and a wide range of amazing attractions, make sure to visit Oaxaca.

From Oaxaca, we made our way to the capital city of Ciudad de Mexico, Mexico City, a typical modern city with a lot going on. Not only was the traffic crazy here, with cars going both ways around the roundabouts, but the public transport was a little confusing, with buses never showing up and the metro being built, so it took multiple connections to get where you wanted. It seemed like the city wanted to appear modern and efficient, but in reality, it was a bit chaotic - which is fine; just embrace it!

We stayed in one of the fancier areas of Mexico City, between Roma Norte and La Condesa, a place known for its fancy shops, eateries, and mansions. We fit right in! Just kidding... We took a bus tour around the city, giving us a glimpse into the city as a whole and an idea of areas we wanted to explore more. We visited the Museum of Archeology, which was fantastic, and enjoyed rambling around the cute Coyoacan area, where Frida Kahlo once lived. 

While in Mexico City we also had the chance to visit Teotihuacan, which is one of the most famous ruins in Mexico and was incredible to see in real life. Boy, is it MASSIVE! On our way there, we passed by hills filled with colorful houses that resembled the favelas of Brazil, and we were told by a local that these were the ghettos of Mexico City and one of the most dangerous areas in the entire country - most likely where Mexico gets its reputation of being hazardous from (but not all of Mexico is like this)

After Mexico City, it was time to go to our last state, Puebla. Here, we would have time to explore the sights and prepare for the wedding which we would attend in the nearby town of Cholula. First, Dennis needed a tie, and I needed to get my awful nails sorted out before we reunited with our friends in a few days. 

​Puebla was a stunning city, full of culture and incredible architecture, and since it was coming up to Dia del Muertos, the city was in full Day of the Dead mode. If you don't already know, this is perhaps the biggest event of the year in Mexico, apart from Christmas, I can imagine, and here you will see lots of decorations, offerings, alters, and even Halloween costumes since they celebrate both holidays these days (they are completely different by the way). Day of the Dead is a time of remembrance, a day when the deceased can enter our world and visit us. Offerings are put out to welcome the dead after their long journey, so you will see alters everywhere with pictures of a person at the top and their favorite foods or beer below. We loved this! 

We had the chance to soak up the atmosphere, enjoy the sights and the food of course, before it was time to get into full wedding mode. 

The Wedding: I reiterate that this was NOT our wedding, but a friend's wedding (yes I did receive lots of messages of Congratulations after posting some stories on Instagram). So, now that it is cleared up, let's talk about the wedding of the year - Lars-Erik and Miriam's Norwegian/Mexican wedding in Cholula, Mexico. 

We arrived at the hotel where the guests would stay for the three-day wedding, but we arrived a day earlier to soak it up and explore the town. Cholula is home to the world's largest pyramid, located right in the city, and can be seen from many of the main streets. This town oozed culture, authenticity, and charm, making it an ideal place for wedding celebrations.

It wasn't long before the wedding guests arrived from around Mexico, Norway, and other parts of Europe to celebrate the wedding. The three-day wedding included a fantastic rooftop Mexican feast, where we met other guests, reunited with old friends and mingled, a morning dance class where everyone learned how to dance Cumbia, and the incredible wedding itself, which was held in a magical Italian-style venue.

Following the best wedding ever, we flew to Cancun, where many guests would also join us for a few days' vacation at the coast. My friend Lis, Dennis, and I rented a beautiful apartment in Playa del Carmen with a rooftop pool and enjoyed some downtime and great nights out with the others before going our separate ways. While the others stayed a little longer in Mexico, we were due to fly to Uruguay to pick up our motorbike, ready for the next leg of the epic South America adventure. 

Mexico was a fantastic backpacking adventure for us, where we learned a lot, ate a lot, saw a lot, and reunited with special friends in a beautiful place. We are so grateful to have been part of the wedding, an experience we will never forget. Thanks, Miriam and Lars-Erik, and thank you to Mexico for being kind to us and showing us your best bits. We will be back!

CHECK OUT THE FULL MEXICO PHOTO ALBUM BELOW!!!

​AND FIND THE MEXICO VLOGS HERE